Wine Reviews
The Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia is very much defined by its strong tannic backbone, and tasting it now, a year after release, that impression remains unchanged. A perfumed, almost floral component lifts the bouquet, which stays elegantly vertical and sharp despite the wine’s power. This is a little tank of a wine, moving forward with muscle and intensity, a character memorably described by Tenuta San Guido general manager Carlo Paoli as “a kid with a drum kit,” an image that feels both fitting and true. The vintage saw lower yields, down 18%, due to severe fruit selection in a hot and dry growing season. The finish brings playful notes of mint and sweet grenadine, trailing off with surprising elegance.
The Tenuta San Guido 2020 Bolgheri Sassicaia needs extra time to open, gradually blossoming to reveal a pretty range of tonic, taut fruit tones. The wine initially shows a bright, malic character that contributes to its early sharpness, before shifting across the aromatic spectrum as it expands to reveal a more open or oxidative note, ultimately lending this vintage a sense of immediacy. The palate closes with good fruit weight and dry spice carried on the tannins. Reminiscent of the approachable 2015 vintage, this edition may not have the cellaring potential of 2016 or 2019.
Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years.
The blend includes 13% to 14% Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Franc playing a decisive phenolic role that reinforces elegance, linearity and brightness. Aromas unfold with wild sage, rosemary and dark fruit before moving into crushed stone minerality, rose petal and a finely spiced spectrum of pink peppercorn, nutmeg, anise, cardamom, bergamot and blood orange, joined by a delicate note of mentuccia romana, sweeter and gentler than classic mint. The palate shows beautiful softness framed by chalky tannins and mineral tension. Its acidity shines bright and guarantees long cellar aging potential. The wine remains fluid and flexible in the glass as different facets of the bouquet emerge. Like the legendary 1985, 2023 was a difficult and stressful vintage shaped by a cold winter, yet it stands as proof that great pressure can indeed give birth to diamonds.
Tenuta San Guido’s 2019 Bolgheri Sassicaia remains somewhat reserved or “behind” aromatically, signaling that it still has a long road ahead before reaching its peak drinking window. It shows rich concentration with elegant fruit weight and a pretty mineral backline, supported by natural spiciness, freshness and energy. Phenolically rich and reminiscent of the slower-aging 2009 vintage, the bouquet is distinguished by a black petrol or campfire ash character that gradually gives way to plump, sweet fruit and bright accents of spice. The palate reveals texture through slowly resolving tannins, and while the 2019 can feel a touch more abrupt when tasted alongside the supremely fluid and supple 2023, it promises depth and longevity with further cellaring.
Aromas of vanilla, tobacco leaf, wild blackberries and blueberries gust on the nose, while the palate brings more sweet berries and vanilla but also has an unexpected bouncy, lively, almost pop-rocks feel from the acid. Flexible tannins structure a warm, citrus finish. As ever, a five-star luxury, with the ease of a lifetime of experience.
