Wine Reviews
The Tenuta San Guido 2024 Guidalberto shows spice and drive through the mid-palate, opening with fragrant notes of cherry shaped by its equal blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is lively and punchy in character with lifted aromatics and fine definition, supported by bright acidity that keeps the palate fresh and agile. Tannins show a touch of dryness, adding grip and structure, while the overall impression remains energetic and easy to appreciate.
The Tenuta San Guido 2023 Guidalberto comes from a challenging vintage, shaped by heat and rain that brought pressure from downy mildew, particularly affecting early-ripening Merlot. Big efforts were made during selection. Aromatically plump and expressive, the wine shows ripe cherry and blackberry preserves layered over a medium- to full-bodied mouthfeel, with primary fruit rounded by sweet notes of cinnamon. Despite the difficulties of the year, there is appealing freshness on the palate with hints of orange peel and blood orange that lift the fruit, giving the wine energy and balance.
The Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia is very much defined by its strong tannic backbone, and tasting it now, a year after release, that impression remains unchanged. A perfumed, almost floral component lifts the bouquet, which stays elegantly vertical and sharp despite the wine’s power. This is a little tank of a wine, moving forward with muscle and intensity, a character memorably described by Tenuta San Guido general manager Carlo Paoli as “a kid with a drum kit,” an image that feels both fitting and true. The vintage saw lower yields, down 18%, due to severe fruit selection in a hot and dry growing season. The finish brings playful notes of mint and sweet grenadine, trailing off with surprising elegance.
Aromas of currants, cedar, mahogany, bark and orange peel say this is distinctly Tuscan. It’s medium-bodied with softness and freshness that bring you back for more. Very soft yet fine tannins. Juicy and subtle. So delicious now. Drink or hold.
Sassicaia 2023 will divide drinkers. While its quality is without question, it takes the idea of finesse and elegance to another level. In truth, this is more a reflection of the vintage conditions than a winemaking decision – but that’s what all great wineries aim to show in the glass, isn’t it? For some, this will be too light, too floral, and too far removed from ‘classic’ Bolgheri. For others, especially those who have been following this estate for several years, it’s a dream come true; a true-to-life model for the future of Italian reds. Me? I’m on the fence. It almost pales in comparison to the depth of fruit and chewy tannins of 2022, while the 2019 tasted alongside emphasises juiciness and silkiness. Supple, lifted and fragrant, 2023’s pure, crunchy bramble fruits, succulent, sapid mid-palate and prolonged freshness make you think differently…in a very good way. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc.
