Wine Reviews

A briny seashore note frames peach and citronella flavors in this juicy, elegant white. Switches gears on the finish, where accents of baking spices and toasted brioche emerge. Drink now through 2032.

Lean and taut, revealing apple, hazelnut, quinine and stone flavors, this white is shaded by toasty, buttery oak. Builds nicely on the palate, guided by lively acidity. Shows excellent harmony and length. Drink now through 2033.

This is creamy, offering peach, bitter grapefruit and hazelnut flavors shaded by lightly toasted oak. An underlying mineral streak adds interest, while vivid acidity adds tension on the long finish. Best from 2028 through 2033.

From a gently sloping site, the 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Les Ménétrières is a wine of considerable density yet one defined by balance. The nose opens with ripe apricot, vanilla and lime blossom beneath a top note of buttery reduction that should recede with air and time. Full-bodied, the palate is concentrated and silken, its weight drawn into line by tangy acidity. Despite its richness, the wine never feels heavy, instead maintaining an impressive sense of volume and composure. The finish is long and flavorful, marked by chestnut cream and a sea-salted edge. It’s a beautiful wine with clear aging potential.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Tournant de Pouilly is a nobly powerful, concentrated wine that is defined by a powdery texture and a firm limestone backbone. Apple and pear lead the nose, accompanied by a subtle note of lime leaf and a touch of vanilla oak. The palate is tightly coiled and densely structured, its concentration countered with ripe acid and subtle bitter edges. There is considerable substance here but also the precision and structural reserve required for extended aging. It closes with authority and persistence, with the limestone character lingering through the finish.