Wine Reviews
Pretty plum and violet notes introduce this full, generous version. Turns powerful and dense on the palate, affixed to cast iron, salty earth, licorice and charred anise. Firmly structured, with a bitter-edged finish lined in graphite that stretches way out. Dense and mineral-driven.
Plum, blood orange, violets, and rose make for an elegant and seamlessly integrated nose that draws you in. Full-bodied and concentrated, it opens with boozy Marasca cherry before moving through a dried herbaceous midpalate, broken stone, and a lovely edge of terracotta on the finish. Pull this out alongside a spread of grilled sausages.
With its fine, intense violet color, the 2023 Moulin-à-Vent is the estate’s flag-bearer, blended from its eight great terroirs. The nose is precise and sappy, already showing the style of the estate. There is extreme ripeness of fruit here, amplitude, tremendous charm, and very certainly one of the highest levels of concentration in Moulin-à-Vent in 2023. On the palate, it is rich, full-bodied, and sappy, propped up by rich and numerous tannins and magnified by a rare silkiness, a unique impression, for a wine of very high style and real inspiration. Drink within 10 years. Drink 2026-2036.
The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès was born on the highest slopes of the appellation at 360 meters, and its magnificent violet color, intense and deep, already shows its concentration. The nose is extremely complex, skillfully built, and leaves one admiring the outstanding smoky scents of considerable style and an admirable quality of fruit, with a simple note of raspberry seed already a delight. The flesh is long, propped up, deep, full-bodied without hardness, and of a silkiness that recalls the greatest crus. This is a wine of inspiration, of temperament, of flesh and of length, whose present constitution will carry it across half a century without difficulty. A wine of immense complexity that leaves one dreaming and inevitably admiring, showing how much this place can be not merely considerable, but immense. Drink 2026-2076.
The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin has a deep violet color of fine brilliance and comes from fruit grown on the triangular parcel just below the historic windmill. This is a wine of great inspiration, born where maceration takes precedence, reaching for notes of tart small red fruits, fresh and precise, bigarreau, Burlat cherry, and fresh raspberry. It has a remarkable texture on the palate, with subtle, neat, long tannins, an absolutely incredible follow-through, and a refinement already in place. Crafted and thought out for aging, it will only grow more magnificent; as it stands, sumptuous, refined notes ennoble the tasting, leading to an outstanding finish of immense silkiness. Everything is here, and this is one of the finest bottles of this report. Drink from now through 2040 without difficulty. Drink 2026-2040.
